Biking to Ireland starts with a bus ride

It's off to Ireland this time. Time to try my luck CouchSurfing Belgium, France and Ireland. 

The first leg to get to Ireland will be solo and joining up forces with Mylene when I reach Dublin. 

Availing of a cheap bus to Aachen, I avoid cycling the breath of Germany. An uneventful and entirely unsocial bus ride, demonstrates that, although convenient and cheap, there is little adventure to be had taking buses. Rather than the 'journey being the destination', one whittles away the hours on a bus in a frenzy of distraction. Wow, wifi, free movies, music.... a blur of insulated entertainment later and "you have reached your destination".

Cong (my CouchSurfing host in Aachen) epitomizes the spirit of generosity of CS. Despite an unexpected guest arriving on his travels from Liverpool and his limited space in the student dorms, we all get a comfortable place to lay our heads for the night. Cong is Chinese, studied in Singapore and is now in Aachen for one semester. He is newly converted to the cult of CS and asks for tips on bike trekking. 

The themes of conversation that unite our group centre around the surreal and mundane stories of travel, especially the our reliance on the kindness of strangers, be this hitch-hiking, accommodation or simply not being ripped off.
 

There is a certain ingenuity and spontaneity to travelling cheaply. It means that you do not have to spend time working saving for that dream holiday, but, more importantly, forces you to rely on others. It is both the giver and receiver of such small actions that benefit from these interactions - the central tenant of CS and one that is widely overlooked in today's insistence on paying for goods and services.

Daily rhythm in the caves

Life in the caves is getting into a simple daily rhythm. The sun rises before 7am but I disregard the cockerel bellowing from the dogs until about 8am when the sun is already beaming into the lounge area of the garden. 

Breakfast consists of oatmeal, yoghurt and pomegranate. Berndt advises drinking freshly picked nettle tea to detoxify the blood - why not give it a shot. Naturally enough it being Sicily, some coffee is required.

After feeding the five dogs, it's off to tend to the chickens. Fresh eggs daily are provided from some very happy hens. I gather peppers, aubergines, corgettes and some lettuce from the garden. Near self-sufficiency here is easy at any time of the year. 

Afternoons usually find me having out on the beach. It is 7km away and approx 150m lower than the caves but Berndt has a choice of bikes I can use.  Even though its mid November, the air temperature is approx 24C and the water temperature I guesstimate to be a respectable 18C or so... despite bemused looks, I kit out and go frolicking in the waves (nobody has probably been swimming here since September). 

After returning home, I heat up the water in the boiler by making a fire, so that I can enjoy a warm shower. In summertime, showering is done outside as the sun directly heats the water. 

The kitchen is outside as is the dining table which means that practically my whole day until sunset is spent outside. This allows to to feel more in tune with the sun's daily trek across the sky. The whirring solar panel motors also remind me of its progress. 

The sun dips below the horizon around 17:00 this time of year and I retreat to the coziness of one of the caves. Each cave comes equipped with a stove which keeps quickly heats the cave and staves away any dampness. 

Now the caves come equipped with WiFi, so evenings are spent surfing the interweb or reading. Occasionally, I go to one of my favorite pizzerias - walnut and Gorgonzola (Zola e noci) or the best ever "Gustosa" (mozzarella, capuliato, carciofi, porcini, algio, prezzemelo). Pizze dolci (sweet pizzas) are all the rage here - including pizza varieties like "ricotta and Nutella" - I am not convinced. 

Relatively free from the light pollution, the sky at night is awash with stars. 

Sleeping in the caves is no problem. After trying many mattresses, Berndt had prevailing issues with dampness and now equips his caves with thick thermarests - high quaility air mattresses.

The daily grind in Ispica

The pace here in Ispica is relaxed, as even now (November) the temperature at midday is approx 25C and Berndt's lifestyle focuses on maintaining his oasis with as little outside pressure as possible. 

While he is here, I get back into his groove of daily chores and also sporadic work. This includes helping him paint a mural for a child's bedroom and bringing a 2CV Citroen from the 70's back to life. 

Now that Berndt has left to Germany, my new daily rhythm takes over and it's off to the beach each day. As it is November, the beach is practically deserted and nobody braves its waters. This really is the perfect time of year to come here. Fewer mosquitos, less intense sun and having your own private beach for miles. The beach is 150m lower than the caves and 6km away. A beautifully hand-painted, pinstriped bike allows me to get there in style. 

Sicily ancore!

Back to Ispica, Sicily, to cave-sit for Berndt for 2 weeks. A chance to stave off the impending winter chill for a while and live closer to nature. 

Third time here and nothing much has changed except the season. Even in November it is harvest season. Gone are the figs, kaki, grapes and tomatoes to be replaced by oranges and lemons. In the vegetable garden lettuce, paprika and aubergines still grow. 

Berndt lives in this tropical garden with his five dogs: Mia, Benny, Hugo, Camilla and, the latest pack member, Cico. 

I am also responsible for the hens that lay the eggs each day. It's good to know your hens personally.

The energy used at "cava di Berndt" is provided by solar panels and fed into 12V batteries. 

The kitchen is located outside in the garden as is the dining area. The sleeping accommodation is really what sets this place apart. There are five caves, three of which are furnished as sleeping rooms. Quite cozy too, as each one has a wood burning stove that keeps it toasty in the wintery nights (down to 5C in January) and drives away the damp air. 

Why I write a travel blog

I often tell people that I don't update my Facebook page to reduce the pressure on others to be 'notified' regularly about just how their lives are somehow less interesting than mine. It's an old argument, I know, but one that's bourne out by FB devotees judging the worth of their lifestyles based on audience reaction.

So why then the blog? It's only the person who is actively thinks of me who make the effort to actually open another apart from FB to see my travelling adventures. It is not forced upon them and therein lies a whole world of difference.

The blog is also a personal record that I can look through in the future and smile, in the same way as making the following map of my cycled routes, thus far, gave me giddy pleasure. 

Three things that have revolutionised the way I travel - Ortlieb panniers, CouchSurfing and Maps.me - I am grateful to live in an age where I have been introduced to all three. 

Vienna

For once I actually take the Radweg (designated bike path), as I am in no rush and this close to Vienna all the roads are pretty hectic. 

Tim, a friend of mine, has come to my rescue and agrees to host me for the two nights. He lives in a shared house with a diverse set of housemates, who are pretty alternative.... Berlin/ Vienna DJ, artist, etc.

Hang about the city for the first day being a tourist - seeing sights, drinking coffee. Although it is a very pretty city, this way of seeing the city no longer interests me. 

We head out to a "Clowns without Borders" fundraising event which is exactly the kind of thing I do like. And then later to Tim's friend's birthday party until the early hours. 

Next day, Tim shows me around. First it's off to the farmers market and then onto Urbanise # 15 - a 10 day event presenting new grassroot projects. This is fascinating stuff - urban mobility and reducing gentrification by pooling inhabitants rent in order to buy a space - Habitäterin (in case you are interested). 

Everyone is allowed to draw their thoughts and ideas directly on the walls, as the space is being renovated. 

Wiener Neustadt

120km with a 1000m pass in constant rain. This is my lasting impression of Austria, that it rains a lot and it gets colder at higher altitudes. My toes and fingers lose sensation and there are no spectacular views on the pass due to fog. 

Arriving in Wiener Neustadt soaked thoroughly, once again a CS angel (Andrè) helps me out. After a revitalizing shower and meal, we hang out watching a movie at home.