Velica Gorica, near Zagreb, Croatia

Yet another border crossing but this time it's out of the Schengin zone and into Croatia. The border patrol guy gives me crap about having to pay 200€ for using a secondary road and trying to avoid the control point... yeah, right. I am expecting to see hoards of Syrian refugees backed up on the Croatian side of the border as reports have said that Slovenia had shut its borders. However, I see very little traffic at all and no refugees. I later learn that there is only one border crossing that is processing the refugees. 

The countryside is again picturesque but less polished than in Slovenia and a bit more dreary. This may be due to my route being alongside a major road all the way to Zagreb. On the plus side, there is continuous sun and no rain... a relief for the cold I've been harboring since Austria.

Wow, Zagreb is sure not a Mecca for cyclists. Cyclists are only safe on the broken-up footpaths and on many roads these don't exist. The cars emit a multitude of colored, noxious smoke from their exhausts and use excessive speed. Not for the faint-of-hearted - a bike-friendly level 5 in my opinion; with level 8 (deathwish) being Tslibisi in Georgia. 

Slovenia, give me more of Maribor

Another day, another country. First time in Slovenia and my first impressions are that it is a lot like Austria. The houses are similar chalet style wooden lodges and there are mountains, but not as numerous or imposing as those in Austria. 

Arriving in a small village outside Maribor, I meet my CS host (Demi) and his sister (Lara). They are living with their mom in this big house and going to university. This is the view from my balcony...

Lots of homegrown food and wine is produced here and I sample amply.

All that Graz

It's a short bike ride to Graz along the Mur river (Murweg). Cleverly I get drenched yet again by keeping my rain gear protected from the rain in my waterproof bags. 

Isabella is there to look after me and soon we are exploring the streets of Graz, taking in the more alternative aspects, including food sharing depots and book sharing points. 

Feeling a little unwell and postpone trip to Slovenia for another day and take in some more traditional tourist sights including a trek up Schlossburg. 

It is with a heavy heart that I leave Isa and Graz behind. Probably stopping back here on my way back. 

Pernegg delights

The rain continues unabated and it sure gets cold when you are at the top of a 1250m pass near Eisenertz. View is breathtaking or maybe that's just hyperventilation after the climb. 

Time for a map of my trip (download open street maps from maps.me for your mobile) to show you where the village of Pernegg is situated.

Such amazing hosts (Simon & Amarai), with an amazing house in Pernegg. Despite a 9 month baby and work commitments, they make lots of time for me. The garden boasts lots of fruit and veggies (Isabella grapes are tasty and I take some to go). 

A hell of a journey to Hall

It's gonna be a long day. Forecast for continuous rain, 140km stretch and a pass of 1000m. 

And I get off to a late start. In spite of the drenching rain and cold conditions the higher I ride, Austria's beauty shines through. 

With frozen fingers and toes and the sun already well set, I meet Josef in Hall and am extremely grateful to have a shower and a meal. 

Vöcklabruck - an interesting detour

The road to Vöcklabruck is sunny and quickly over. It is a detour to come north from Salzburg but Bob is very enthusiastic to meet me. He is American but has lived in Austria for 31 years.  he is close to retiring as a school teacher but i think his community activism will last for many years. We talk late into the night over a great butternut squash dinner. 

He uses his house as a "crash pad" or "nomad base" for anyone who is travelling through these parts, sometimes accommodating up to 12 people at once. He confesses that this may change if he decides to take in some refugees in the coming months.

So far, the Austrians that live met have been extremely active in helping out the Syrian refugees flooding through Austria on their way to Germany. 

Road to Croatia

Starting at the end of September decide to skip the German part of my bike trip to Croatia by taking MeinFern bus. Apologies for the plug, but it is worth noting that they do take fully assembled bikes across Germany for only 9€. This means my trip to Salzburg (border town of Austria) involves a minimal amount of fuss and his a cheaper alternative to the Deutsche Bahn train. 

Salzburg is a sleepy Austrian city where I get to meet my first CouchSurfing host - Thomas. He is helping out with the refugees in Salzburg and tells me of his experiences with the influx of Syrian refugees, primarily seeking refuge in Germany after 1000's of kms by land and  sea. Thomas is a nudist and suggested that we have a beer together au naturale in his comfortable apartment. Why not? This is part of the joy of CSing: the "finding new comfort-zone effect".