Pernegg an der Mur

A short evening ride to Pernegg to stay with Simon and Amrai. Hang out in Frohleiten and then take an early night after enjoying some 21 year old, sail-boat, limited edition rum. 

Awake to find constant rain will accompany me on my journey to Weiner Neustadt today. 

Graz revisited

A short ride to Graz on well maintained bike paths. Meet up with Isa again, this time in her new place. Instead of living alone, she now lives in a WG with three others. They have a vegetable patch and grow apples, Isabella grapes and quinces    They make various jams, compotes, juices and sauces from their produce. Especially delicious is the banana chutney. 

After eating outside in the garden on this sunny afternoon, we take a bike ride around the neighboring hilltops for a better view. In the beech forest, Isa points out all the local flora and tells me of the 'tree people'. We also find a very camouflaged frog - just under Isa's wrist in photo. 

Later that evening, we all head out to a music performance by Max & his band. I try some schillingsturm (young, sparkling, pink wine). Then there is an impromptu yodeling performance in the bar. 

Next day we chill out and go to a local farmers' market before I hit the road northwards. 

Forest, on Slovenian-Austrian border

Chose Sunday to cycle out of Zagreb, thinking it would prove quieter on the roads. Kind of, but still avoid any semi-major road. I have no waiting time or problems on the Slovenian border but do have to take the highway for a few kilometers - no other way for cyclists to get to border control. 

The ride from Zagreb through Slovenia and into Austria is like a gradually increasing progression of cycling conditions and cycling safety. 

First time this trip I get to wild camp and its just over the border in Austria. It proves to be a cold disrupted sleep, as I did not bring my thermarest sleeping mat. 

Velica Gorica, Zagreb

Expecting many refugees at the border between Croatia and Slovenia but there are none. This I learn later is due to Slovenia's decision to only allow refugees through one border point. The border patrol guy gives me crap about having to pay 200€ for trying to avoid the border patrol. His attempt is not successful. 

Croatia seems less finished and much less like Austria, with buildings under construction and things left lying around... a forklift here, a big pile of iron girders there. However my biggest complaint is the non-cyclist friendly roads, especially near Zagreb... no space for bikes on large roads, the cars travelling very fast or having to make very large detours to get onto a quieter road. 

I make it to Natasa's house with fried nerves due to the traffic. Have not seen Natasa for 13 years, but she and her house haven't changed. By the way, this is not some Dublin pajamas fashion thing, it's just early. 

Spend a few days at Natasa's place and hang around Gorica and venture in to Zagreb. Here is the opera house. 

I meet up with Borco, a guy I met over a year ago and he shows me the bike kitchen where he volunteers.

Borco also shows me around the more alternative, studenty side of Zagreb... street art, student bars, music festival. 

Here is Sopot, a district which has the biggest apartment block in Croatia called "Mammoth". 5000 inhabitants and air raid shelters built for the Serbian bombing attacks in the early 90's. 

Velica Gorica, near Zagreb, Croatia

Yet another border crossing but this time it's out of the Schengin zone and into Croatia. The border patrol guy gives me crap about having to pay 200€ for using a secondary road and trying to avoid the control point... yeah, right. I am expecting to see hoards of Syrian refugees backed up on the Croatian side of the border as reports have said that Slovenia had shut its borders. However, I see very little traffic at all and no refugees. I later learn that there is only one border crossing that is processing the refugees. 

The countryside is again picturesque but less polished than in Slovenia and a bit more dreary. This may be due to my route being alongside a major road all the way to Zagreb. On the plus side, there is continuous sun and no rain... a relief for the cold I've been harboring since Austria.

Wow, Zagreb is sure not a Mecca for cyclists. Cyclists are only safe on the broken-up footpaths and on many roads these don't exist. The cars emit a multitude of colored, noxious smoke from their exhausts and use excessive speed. Not for the faint-of-hearted - a bike-friendly level 5 in my opinion; with level 8 (deathwish) being Tslibisi in Georgia. 

Slovenia, give me more of Maribor

Another day, another country. First time in Slovenia and my first impressions are that it is a lot like Austria. The houses are similar chalet style wooden lodges and there are mountains, but not as numerous or imposing as those in Austria. 

Arriving in a small village outside Maribor, I meet my CS host (Demi) and his sister (Lara). They are living with their mom in this big house and going to university. This is the view from my balcony...

Lots of homegrown food and wine is produced here and I sample amply.

All that Graz

It's a short bike ride to Graz along the Mur river (Murweg). Cleverly I get drenched yet again by keeping my rain gear protected from the rain in my waterproof bags. 

Isabella is there to look after me and soon we are exploring the streets of Graz, taking in the more alternative aspects, including food sharing depots and book sharing points. 

Feeling a little unwell and postpone trip to Slovenia for another day and take in some more traditional tourist sights including a trek up Schlossburg. 

It is with a heavy heart that I leave Isa and Graz behind. Probably stopping back here on my way back.