Monday 10 July 2017

Niš


 Rodrigo travels similarly to me, but instead of finding hosts on CouchSurfing, he usually uses WarmShowers. This site is specifically for bicycle tourers and has the advantage of being able to see the surrogate location of all the members using its integrated map. Unfortunately, the are far fewer members than on CouchSurfing.
Today's destination is Niš, where I have found a host. Rodrigo finds another host that is located out of town. Even agree to meet up in the coming week somewhere in Serbia or Hungary.
Sandra lives in a modestly sized ground floor (yippee, no need to carry my stuff up stairs) apartment near the city centre, with her boyfriend and one year old son. She had been hosting since March, a fact that in find remarkable, as becoming a mother involves is own stresses. She is religious (orthodox, naturally) and has strong opinions on veganism and "poisonous coffee".
I get to visit Sandra's local church and shown about the city. The "Family's" restaurant is a notable highlight, mixing romantic Italian music with traditional Serbian cuisine.
During my stay, I am invited to attend a feast day celebration at a local orthodox monastery in neighbouring hills. An early start means that we don't sweat on the taxi ride there. The ceremony is held outside and lasts more than two hours. Women are separated from the men, while the four priests chant for the most part on the alter.
The lunch is memorable and delicious, when we finally get down to eat. The ingredients are mostly sourced locally or on site and I am informed that the food tastes especially good as it is prepared with prayer.













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