Cycle friendliness ranking

List of countries travelled this time based on cycle-friendliness:

1. Austria (as I travelled only on the Danube Way)
1. rarely have to meet vehicular traffic
2. water taps at some spots
3. wide, well maintained cycle paths
2. Germany
1. trunk roads see little traffic
2. drivers patient with cyclists
3. many cycle paths
4. no public water taps!
3. Serbia
1. some cities have good infrastructure (Novi Sad, Sombor)
2. drivers are patient with cyclists
3. water taps everywhere
4. east Serbia has narrow winding roads, multiple tunnels and some large freight trucks
4. Slovakia
1. Bratislava has some good infrastructure, but some roads are dangerous for cyclists
5. Czech Republic 
1. must take circuitous routes to avoid the highways
2. general roads through villages not well maintained/ cobblestones
6. Bulgaria 
1. water taps everywhere
2. allowed to cycle on major roads (including highways)
7. Hungary 
1. many roads prohibit cyclists without prior warning ie difficult to avoid
2. Danube Way is sometimes just a dirt road or very difficult to follow as it zigzags through villages
3. water taps everywhere

Berlin, my long lost friend

I had planned to break up the ride back to Berlin into two days, but an impending rain-filled night changes my mind. I decide to ride the full 200km. Even if I am riding into the night, I will sleep in my own bed tonight.
It turns out that the wind is favorable and I depart all hilly terrain on my exit of Dresden. With a steady pace, I reach Berlin as the sun is setting. It wasn't really that much of an effort after all - must have developed those "biker legs" over the past two months.

Dresden

Taking two days to reach Dresden, due to a very late start from Prague, I welcome the improvement in the cycle lanes as I enter Germany once again. As a result, there is a large increase in the bike trekkers, with even queues forming at times. The Danube Way is a spectacular ride toward Dresden, with castles and sweet villages lining up on riverside precipices.
I use WarmShowers (WS) in a last ditch attempt to find somewhere comfortable and central to spend my night(s) in Dresden. The WS community is there for me and Tobias says that although he won't be in town, he is prepared to leave his keys with his neighbour, so that I can let myself in.

As it turns out, he recognises me on the Danube Way and, after a quick chat, we continue our opposite courses with a longer introduction set aside for tomorrow. Yet another example of how a trust-based system is a great way to meet people and increase one's faith in the goodness of one's fellow man.
Basically it all means that I am home alone for the evening. After a quick stop at the shops (supermarkets are closed on Sundays in Germany), I enjoy the comforts of a large apartment with full TV privileges.
Dresden is a beautiful city, with many restored buildings in the old part. I spend the next chilling out in the old town: nothing specific, just watching the world go by.
Tobias arrives later and I prepare some dinner. He tells me of his previous night spent in a cave in the Tschesches Schweiz (Czech Switzerland) mountains and we talk bikes and life until late into the evening.

Prague

With no accommodation planned in Prague, my thought is to go through the city and sleep wild in the nearest woods. Once again, CouchSurfing saves me from this foolhardy plan - there are no forests within approximately 40km of Prague.
Steve (UK) and Gabriella (Brazil) offer their second apartment for my personal use. They have only lived here two weeks and although new to CouchSurfing, they trust me to respect their apartment.  Feeling tired from the previous night's wild camping and the holy terrain of Czech's midlands, I stay up late enjoying the comforts of WiFi and four walls.

Chrast, an unexpected highlight

It rains all day as I struggle to climb out of Brno and toward Prague. Thanks to my GPS (maps.me & mapy.cz), I know the challenge that awaits me. Approximately 3000m cumulative elevation over 260km.
In spite of sugary waffles to raise my energy levels and my mood, I manage only 110km today. The roads are uneven, the climbs steep through innumerable small villages with unpronounceable names. The constant rain adds to my deflated mood.
As I pass through the last town before looking for somewhere to wild camp for the night, a driver in a truck stops me and tries to ask me where I will stay for the night. Thankfully, he rings up his wife who proceeds to invite me back home to stay the night. Throwing the bike onto the back of the truck, I am stuck by how alruistic people are.
It turns out that Petr is crazy about bikes and with help from his wife, Nicole and Google translate, I learn all about his crazy bicycle adventures. In 2015 he competed in a bicycle race that was 720km long, with 19000m elevation, through muddy trails in Czech and Poland. Respect!
Their three year old daughter Johanna (Johanka) is gregarious and bemused at my not being able to speak Czech, like normal people.
I enjoy their company and generosity so much that I stay an extra night, my only role to sometimes keep an eye on Johanka.

Brno

With a packed lunch, courtesy of my foster mother (I'm sure she has hundreds of foster kids), I set off for Brno. It's the second largest city in the Czech Republic and I remember it as a less pretty, but gentler vibe, than Prague.
Yet again, I am relying on the last minute search on Couchsurfing and BeWelcome to come to my rescue and yet again, it does not disappoint. Lenka is my heroine this time and she lives on the outskirts of town. This means hills, lots of hills, to climb. We head out on the town and a quick tour of the city and night.
Next day I explore the city alone, taking in the parks (slackliners abound), la bouchele (an urban garden) and an artist neighborhood. It's difficult and confusing to get around this city, as there are numerous trails through parks and steep inclines everywhere.

Moravska Nova Ves, Czech wine country

I meander my way out of Bratislava without Rodrigo following the Moreva river north. It is beautiful following the cycle paths and disused railway lines. I take my time as I have no host for the evening.
On checking my emails, Michal (Warm Showers) tells me that his parents would gladly host me if I go to their house in a wine region in the Czech Republic. As it all last minute, I arrive at the address not knowing if they know of my arrival. I ring the bell and as soon as Maria (Michal's mother) sees the bike, she welcomes me into her family home. It turns out that she has had no warning of my coming, but she and her husband are always taking in weary travellers.
A former English teacher, she tells me of her family and its history and gives me a tour of the huge garden. She makes sure that I am never hungry and keeps filling my plate, bowl or cup until I surrender.
Having only planned to stay one night, I succumb to the warmth of the hospitality and stay two nights, spending the next day cycling around the Moravian towns and vineyards, before returning 'home' to be promptly fed once again.
It truly is remarkable that such people with a meagre pension take time and effort to make strangers welcome. They trust implicitly in the goodness of their visitors and allow that breath of fresh air into their lives. They become enriched by the adventures and cultures from far away lands and have even accommodated five Canadians at the same time. To give and to expect nothing in return - actually living their Catholic beliefs.

Bratislava, Slovakia

We break camp early and head to the Slovakian border, not knowing where we will sleep tonight. In spite of numerous requests sent on warm showers and Couchsurfing, we haven't even got a nibble. That's the thing. Finding hosts for two people with bikes is difficult, no matter how interesting your story is.
We reach the outskirts of Bratislava before midday, not even realising that we have crossed the border. We laze around, have lunch and swim for a bit.
Eating preferences differ between Rodrigo and I. As he is traveling a whole year, he is somewhat constrained by his budget and eats cheap white bread, tomatoes, cheese and cucumbers as his staple. I am not habituated to eating so much bread and today, as we once again can use Euro, I buy many salad ingredients, museli, bananas and joghurt. Although not lavish by any means, it feels like a banquet.
We look about the city, which feels more bicycle-friendly this time. The castle overlooking the city is definitely worth the climb. Later that evening we check out Bratislava's "bicycle kitchen". This was established six years ago with the aim to allow the public to repair their bikes on a pay-what-you-can basis. As it is volunteer run, it is only open on Wednesday evenings. We're in luck, especially as there is a concert planned later. Such be kitchens bring a wide assortment of people together, from artists to come activists, novice to experienced bikers. There are few community spaces that traverse social classes and backgrounds the way that bike kitchens do.
As the evening draws to a close, we get tips on where to camp nearby on the banks of the Danube.

Gyor, wild camping

After an indulgent breakfast of French toast, bananas and yogurt (which actually turns out to be sour cream), we hit the road in the early afternoon. Again, no rush, as we have no one to meet at our next destination, Gyor.
The good food and sleeping on a bed, means that we cover the 90km in record time. Unfortunately, we arrive too late to enjoy Langos from Langos Manufactura. After a quick tour of the city, we find a camping spot outside the town by a river and call it a day.

Esztergom, animal sanctuary

Leaving Budapest in the late afternoon, we find the Danube Way cycling route and follow the Danube along forest trails and through parks. We are in no rush as we presumed to have no Couchsurfer respond to our last minute plea for accommodation.
However, Gabriella answers our call and she prepares a delicious, Middle Eastern, vegetarian meal. She lives alone with two large boxer dogs and seven cats. She generously gives us her bed and it's pointless to try and refuse this hospitality. We have a quick tour and dog walk of the city at midnight, just as the lights of the basilica are turned off.

Budapest, better second time around

 The weather is finally cooling down, to a reasonable 32C or so, which makes cycling the 130km possible without having to get up at dawn.

Arriving in Budapest, we head for our last minute Couchsurfer, Sara, who lives with her family in the heart of the city. One of his daughters gives up her bed for us to a in and we are wined and dined the whole night through.
The next day we frantically search for another "couch" or "warm shower" (a similar peer-to-peer accommodation site, aimed at bicycle tourers) for the night, to no avail. We do some sightseeing in the Pest side of Budapest and later camp approx 15km north of the city in a disused meadow.
Again the search begins the next day for a "couch" for the night. Happily we find Balazs, who suggests that we can stay in a community centre in the city centre. Finally, I can see what all the hype of Budapest-at-night is ask about. We go to bar Simpla, in the former Jewish District, and the most popular bar in Budapest. Afterwards we roll around on our bikes taking photos of the spectacular buildings and the wonderful lighting.

Baja, 30km north of

It's with heavy hearts that we make our leave from the happy yoga camp in the late morning.

We've decided to make Budapest in two days, which means we take a quick look at Baja, refilling water bottles and snacking, before heading north. This means only 130km more to do tomorrow to reach Budapest.
We find a quiet spot beside the cycle way at dusk and promptly get swarmed by mosquitos, keen to feast on some Irish/ Argentinian blood for
We set our alarms for an early start to avoid the afternoon sun.

supper.

Sombor, crashing the party

I meet Rodrigo on the road to Sombor the next day. Baking midday heat impedes our progress somewhat, so we arrive in Sombor in the late afternoon.
I decide to drop into the yoga centre unannounced, where I stayed last month. I enter the large garden to find a large group of people practicing capoeira and lots of tents set up on the lawn. It turns out that there is an eighteen day yoga/ mediation camp in progress, with participants from eight countries. I ask Fabian of it is ok for us to camp there for one night. Although he has his hands very full, we are introduced to the group and encouraged even to participate in yoga and meditation, in Serbian. The atmosphere is fun and everyone is curious about us and our travels.