Arrabida, idyllic beach life

Only 15km to the next stop, a beach near Setubul, where I have been assured, wild camping is more than tolerated. The only question is how spectacular the sunrises and sunsets will be at the beach. I am getting bolder and camping right next to the beach in Portugal. It seems like nobody really cares and if one does it still a bit stealthily, it is possible to stay in the one place more than one night. The only downside at this beach in Arrabida is that there is no supermarket and only two over-priced chiccy cafes so long term stay here could be tricky, unless one brought in more provisions - there is a 250m road climb to get off this beach!

Thought I would only stay one night here and then move onto Lisbon, but having found no hosts on trustroots, couchsurfing, Warmshowers and BeWelcome, I guess it's the universe telling me to stay on the beach instead of staying in the capital. It's a lazy day on the beach, with very few other beach visitors. The water is an unexpectedly frigid 16C, so swimming casually is for those of the Win Hof variety or those with a faulty internal thermostat. Also there are no waves here as it is in a large bay protected from the brunt of the Atlantic ocean. It is difficult having days off from cycling as cycling becomes a way of spending my days and burning off some energy. Learning to let go of purpose-driven days is a process and when you are in a stunning setting it helps. 

Tent in daytime "stealth mode". 

Setubul, near Lisbon

After the two nights on the dunes with the sound of the waves washing over me in the evenings, it was time to bike again. Finding hosts in Portugal has been even more difficult than in Spain, so I take the chance offered by my Trustroots hosts to stay with them in Setubal.

Slight headwinds and increasing temperature mean that when I reach the ferry to Setubal I am feeling pretty drained. The national road north is nearly devoid of car traffic as the ferry is relatively expensive for cars. It's a nice encouragement to cyclists that bringing a bike incurs no surcharge. 

I meet my hosts Katya and Max at their place in the evening. They are russian-born and of Jewish decent, who have travelled extensively hiking and hitch-hiking on a shoestring budget. We have plenty of travelling stories to share and they particularly inspire me to travel Japan and Iceland. We hang out together when they are not otherwise busy and even offer me an extra night's accommodation on learning that I am not in a rush to reach Porto. I love the home-cooked, healthy food they prepare and Max even forgoes his carnivorous tendencies for the length of my stay. No doubt we will meet again on our travels. 

Porto Novo

Starting near midday after breakfast with Kasper, I have refreshed legs and the journey of 90km is pretty easy, in spite of headwinds and some hilly terrain. I opt for the national roads as I want to get to Lisbon without the hastles of directions and poor road conditions. Thankfully the drivers are once again respectful of cyclists' safe distance, although the large trucks and buses do feel unnerving on these relatively narrow roads with little hard shoulder. 

Not finding a host in Sines, I choose to find a wild camping spot close to the beach near the touristic Porto Novo. The village seems to be particularly full of hikers and some bike trekkers. Porto Novo is only 100km away from Lisbon and easily reachable by a regular bus service. Luckily it is not high season and finding a hidden spot in the dunes is not difficult. 

The next day I decide to stay another day in this area and chill on the beach most of the day. My camping spot is so secluded, I simply collapse the tent during the daytime, so that I don't have to carry my luggage to the beach. 

Aljezur, meeting an unexpected hero

Not sure if the plan today, as my Warmshowers host has yet to confirm my stay. I am in limbo land until I get a message at lunchtime that I am invited to his place near Aljezur. 

What an oasis and spectacular find. Kasper invites me into his home and introduces me to his family. Soon we get talking about various sharing projects inwhich we have been involved. Here I am most thoroughly outdone. Kasper nonchalantly stares that he is the founder of Hitchwiki and Trustroots - both platforms that are a major inspiration to me. And by happy coincidence, he mentions a certain bike sharing platform from Berlin - I casually reply that I have founded the Bikesurf platform.

Over the next days, we have so many brainstorming sessions about how to develop and integrate our respective projects, that it keeps my head reeling with future possibilities. 

Bensafrim, Eurovelo 1 can feck off!

I start after lunchtime and intent to get at least 80km today to a place west of Lagos, where it will be possible to wild camp for the night. I decide to try the Eurovelo 1 route, but after about 20km of hills and bad roads, I head back to the national road EN120 to be able to reach my destination in time. It's boring, but not dangerous, with plenty of hard shoulder and the drivers overtaking me with plenty of room, albeit far less than that to which I was accustomed from their Spanish brethren. 

I head inland to Bensafrim, thinking it's easier to find a quiet place to camp away from the touristic coastal areas. I find a great spot for the night's camp. 

Quarteira, Algarve paradise

Just a stoned throw west if Faro lies Quarteira. I have contacted João through Couchsurfing, but we suspect we know each other from 10 years ago. We had helped organise the Ecotopia bike tour of that year. There is a lot of money here, with detached houses owned primarily by the Irish and British and the apartments closer to the centre bought or rented by the French and Germans.... old habits die hard. 

Gorgeous sandy beaches and it's sunny enugh to go swimming in the 16C water. João has offered me my own private apartment a few hundred metres from the beach. What luxury - bathroom, multiple bedrooms, cable TV, huge balcony and best of all a fully equipped kitchen. It'll be hard to leave here. 

Faro, first step of Eurovelo 1 (Atlantic way)

There is always something to do on a bike tour like this : get WiFi (download route, find new hosts, check weather, etc.); get sustenance (coffee, food, groceries); wash clothes; grab a shower; dry sleeping gear from night before; maintain bike in good repair. Sometimes this means that there are tasks that must be completed before starting on the next eg waiting hours in the morning for the sun to come up to dry the tent is most frustrating, as then the day's cycle starts at the hottest part of the day. 

Gripes aside, there is something special about crossing a country's border, in particular when that border means changing a time zone. This is the case going to Portugal - 1 hour behind CET. In practical terms, this means one less hour biking in the evenings. 

Today's biking is short as I only need reach Faro ton stay with my next Warmshowers host, João.