San Pablo de Ruceite - an oasis for bike packers

I had been warned on several occasions that the official eurovelo 8 route after Málaga was dangerous/ illegal. My good friend, the N340, changes abruptly into A7 (autovía) ie a highway, suitable only for cars. However, this is a somewhat nuanced situation, as discussed on many an online biker forum. The A7 designation is relatively new, and as there is no other direct road along the coast for bicycles, many bikers take their chances. What are the arguments against this being a true autovía? no hard shoulder; the speed limit is 80km/h; multiple roundabouts; no bicycles prohibited signs. Alberto said that you can use the A7 but keep on the other side of the barriers. This I attempted for many kilometres until it proved impossible with overgrown trees or narrow bridge sections. I even managed to ruin my new Ortlieb pannier bag by snagging it on a metal barricade. This careful approach was getting me nowhere fast and increasing my frustration no end. Taking heart from some lycra lads on their speedy bikes who were charging down the autovía with nary a care, I decided to do likewise. Having a strong tailwind meant that I was covering 25km each hour and that experience would be over one way or another soon enough. Not one car, bus or truck honked at me and they all kept their distance from this daredevil cyclist. I am sure glad that this second experience cycling a highway did not result in my having a stiff talking to by the police, unlike that time in Sicily in 2012. 

In the end I covered over 130km today, and arrived at Louie's home in San Pablo de Ruceite in the early evening, just as the first rain drips start falling. Louie is an elderly lady living in a cottage filled with books, artworks and musical instruments. She is a professional gardener, keen seemstress and devoted musician. She has hosted many on Warm Showers and knows exactly how to treat her guests. She also loves that her guests help her a little about the house - my speciality was sorting out the new digital TV box for her. Her home is so cosy, with a log fire and two amiable dogs. Her lemon tree helps her to produce the best lemon curd I have ever tasted. Here she is mending the aforementioned Ortlieb pannier with some nifty needlework.