The decision is to head southwards to the beaches in Ecuador, rather than heading to the pacific coast of Colombia (here are the ports from which the cartels ship the cocaine) or the Atlantic coast of Colombia (relatively touristy and developed). Mompiche is the destination, so.
Warnings of kidnapping south of popayan, mean a daytime bus for me this time. It was worth it, the landscapes between popayan and the border are some of the most spectacular I have seen - majestic mountain passes, varied flora, rocks I have never seen before.
The border crossing with Ecuador is a most relaxed affair, proving their strong historical and political alliance. It is best to get your passport stamped, but there is no actual barrier through which one must pass. My guide through the border was Taka (from Japan), who has actually done his research on Ecuador and we travelled as far as Quito together.
No CS host found in Quito, so it's an overnight bus to reach the coastal town of Mompiche. It was really worth all the trouble to get here. It's a small fishing village, to which surfers and other beach-inclined travelers migrate and has not (yet) become loud and overbearing at nighttime. The beach is impressive and the waves are "going off", "sick" or "totally tubular". There is a left-handed point break which can get to a few meters at times and is not heavily populated. I stay in my very comfortable surrounds, swimming daily for the next 12 days. The rainy season (March-April) starts to set in. When it rains here there is a large risk of mudslides, painful roads for long periods of time. I decide to head back toward Bogota, where, i have been informed by email, my plane will be three days late.
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