Daily rhythm in the caves

Life in the caves is getting into a simple daily rhythm. The sun rises before 7am but I disregard the cockerel bellowing from the dogs until about 8am when the sun is already beaming into the lounge area of the garden. 

Breakfast consists of oatmeal, yoghurt and pomegranate. Berndt advises drinking freshly picked nettle tea to detoxify the blood - why not give it a shot. Naturally enough it being Sicily, some coffee is required.

After feeding the five dogs, it's off to tend to the chickens. Fresh eggs daily are provided from some very happy hens. I gather peppers, aubergines, corgettes and some lettuce from the garden. Near self-sufficiency here is easy at any time of the year. 

Afternoons usually find me having out on the beach. It is 7km away and approx 150m lower than the caves but Berndt has a choice of bikes I can use.  Even though its mid November, the air temperature is approx 24C and the water temperature I guesstimate to be a respectable 18C or so... despite bemused looks, I kit out and go frolicking in the waves (nobody has probably been swimming here since September). 

After returning home, I heat up the water in the boiler by making a fire, so that I can enjoy a warm shower. In summertime, showering is done outside as the sun directly heats the water. 

The kitchen is outside as is the dining table which means that practically my whole day until sunset is spent outside. This allows to to feel more in tune with the sun's daily trek across the sky. The whirring solar panel motors also remind me of its progress. 

The sun dips below the horizon around 17:00 this time of year and I retreat to the coziness of one of the caves. Each cave comes equipped with a stove which keeps quickly heats the cave and staves away any dampness. 

Now the caves come equipped with WiFi, so evenings are spent surfing the interweb or reading. Occasionally, I go to one of my favorite pizzerias - walnut and Gorgonzola (Zola e noci) or the best ever "Gustosa" (mozzarella, capuliato, carciofi, porcini, algio, prezzemelo). Pizze dolci (sweet pizzas) are all the rage here - including pizza varieties like "ricotta and Nutella" - I am not convinced. 

Relatively free from the light pollution, the sky at night is awash with stars. 

Sleeping in the caves is no problem. After trying many mattresses, Berndt had prevailing issues with dampness and now equips his caves with thick thermarests - high quaility air mattresses.

The daily grind in Ispica

The pace here in Ispica is relaxed, as even now (November) the temperature at midday is approx 25C and Berndt's lifestyle focuses on maintaining his oasis with as little outside pressure as possible. 

While he is here, I get back into his groove of daily chores and also sporadic work. This includes helping him paint a mural for a child's bedroom and bringing a 2CV Citroen from the 70's back to life. 

Now that Berndt has left to Germany, my new daily rhythm takes over and it's off to the beach each day. As it is November, the beach is practically deserted and nobody braves its waters. This really is the perfect time of year to come here. Fewer mosquitos, less intense sun and having your own private beach for miles. The beach is 150m lower than the caves and 6km away. A beautifully hand-painted, pinstriped bike allows me to get there in style. 

Sicily ancore!

Back to Ispica, Sicily, to cave-sit for Berndt for 2 weeks. A chance to stave off the impending winter chill for a while and live closer to nature. 

Third time here and nothing much has changed except the season. Even in November it is harvest season. Gone are the figs, kaki, grapes and tomatoes to be replaced by oranges and lemons. In the vegetable garden lettuce, paprika and aubergines still grow. 

Berndt lives in this tropical garden with his five dogs: Mia, Benny, Hugo, Camilla and, the latest pack member, Cico. 

I am also responsible for the hens that lay the eggs each day. It's good to know your hens personally.

The energy used at "cava di Berndt" is provided by solar panels and fed into 12V batteries. 

The kitchen is located outside in the garden as is the dining area. The sleeping accommodation is really what sets this place apart. There are five caves, three of which are furnished as sleeping rooms. Quite cozy too, as each one has a wood burning stove that keeps it toasty in the wintery nights (down to 5C in January) and drives away the damp air. 

Why I write a travel blog

I often tell people that I don't update my Facebook page to reduce the pressure on others to be 'notified' regularly about just how their lives are somehow less interesting than mine. It's an old argument, I know, but one that's bourne out by FB devotees judging the worth of their lifestyles based on audience reaction.

So why then the blog? It's only the person who is actively thinks of me who make the effort to actually open another apart from FB to see my travelling adventures. It is not forced upon them and therein lies a whole world of difference.

The blog is also a personal record that I can look through in the future and smile, in the same way as making the following map of my cycled routes, thus far, gave me giddy pleasure. 

Three things that have revolutionised the way I travel - Ortlieb panniers, CouchSurfing and Maps.me - I am grateful to live in an age where I have been introduced to all three. 

Vienna

For once I actually take the Radweg (designated bike path), as I am in no rush and this close to Vienna all the roads are pretty hectic. 

Tim, a friend of mine, has come to my rescue and agrees to host me for the two nights. He lives in a shared house with a diverse set of housemates, who are pretty alternative.... Berlin/ Vienna DJ, artist, etc.

Hang about the city for the first day being a tourist - seeing sights, drinking coffee. Although it is a very pretty city, this way of seeing the city no longer interests me. 

We head out to a "Clowns without Borders" fundraising event which is exactly the kind of thing I do like. And then later to Tim's friend's birthday party until the early hours. 

Next day, Tim shows me around. First it's off to the farmers market and then onto Urbanise # 15 - a 10 day event presenting new grassroot projects. This is fascinating stuff - urban mobility and reducing gentrification by pooling inhabitants rent in order to buy a space - Habitäterin (in case you are interested). 

Everyone is allowed to draw their thoughts and ideas directly on the walls, as the space is being renovated. 

Wiener Neustadt

120km with a 1000m pass in constant rain. This is my lasting impression of Austria, that it rains a lot and it gets colder at higher altitudes. My toes and fingers lose sensation and there are no spectacular views on the pass due to fog. 

Arriving in Wiener Neustadt soaked thoroughly, once again a CS angel (Andrè) helps me out. After a revitalizing shower and meal, we hang out watching a movie at home. 

Pernegg an der Mur

A short evening ride to Pernegg to stay with Simon and Amrai. Hang out in Frohleiten and then take an early night after enjoying some 21 year old, sail-boat, limited edition rum. 

Awake to find constant rain will accompany me on my journey to Weiner Neustadt today. 

Graz revisited

A short ride to Graz on well maintained bike paths. Meet up with Isa again, this time in her new place. Instead of living alone, she now lives in a WG with three others. They have a vegetable patch and grow apples, Isabella grapes and quinces    They make various jams, compotes, juices and sauces from their produce. Especially delicious is the banana chutney. 

After eating outside in the garden on this sunny afternoon, we take a bike ride around the neighboring hilltops for a better view. In the beech forest, Isa points out all the local flora and tells me of the 'tree people'. We also find a very camouflaged frog - just under Isa's wrist in photo. 

Later that evening, we all head out to a music performance by Max & his band. I try some schillingsturm (young, sparkling, pink wine). Then there is an impromptu yodeling performance in the bar. 

Next day we chill out and go to a local farmers' market before I hit the road northwards. 

Forest, on Slovenian-Austrian border

Chose Sunday to cycle out of Zagreb, thinking it would prove quieter on the roads. Kind of, but still avoid any semi-major road. I have no waiting time or problems on the Slovenian border but do have to take the highway for a few kilometers - no other way for cyclists to get to border control. 

The ride from Zagreb through Slovenia and into Austria is like a gradually increasing progression of cycling conditions and cycling safety. 

First time this trip I get to wild camp and its just over the border in Austria. It proves to be a cold disrupted sleep, as I did not bring my thermarest sleeping mat. 

Velica Gorica, Zagreb

Expecting many refugees at the border between Croatia and Slovenia but there are none. This I learn later is due to Slovenia's decision to only allow refugees through one border point. The border patrol guy gives me crap about having to pay 200€ for trying to avoid the border patrol. His attempt is not successful. 

Croatia seems less finished and much less like Austria, with buildings under construction and things left lying around... a forklift here, a big pile of iron girders there. However my biggest complaint is the non-cyclist friendly roads, especially near Zagreb... no space for bikes on large roads, the cars travelling very fast or having to make very large detours to get onto a quieter road. 

I make it to Natasa's house with fried nerves due to the traffic. Have not seen Natasa for 13 years, but she and her house haven't changed. By the way, this is not some Dublin pajamas fashion thing, it's just early. 

Spend a few days at Natasa's place and hang around Gorica and venture in to Zagreb. Here is the opera house. 

I meet up with Borco, a guy I met over a year ago and he shows me the bike kitchen where he volunteers.

Borco also shows me around the more alternative, studenty side of Zagreb... street art, student bars, music festival. 

Here is Sopot, a district which has the biggest apartment block in Croatia called "Mammoth". 5000 inhabitants and air raid shelters built for the Serbian bombing attacks in the early 90's. 

Velica Gorica, near Zagreb, Croatia

Yet another border crossing but this time it's out of the Schengin zone and into Croatia. The border patrol guy gives me crap about having to pay 200€ for using a secondary road and trying to avoid the control point... yeah, right. I am expecting to see hoards of Syrian refugees backed up on the Croatian side of the border as reports have said that Slovenia had shut its borders. However, I see very little traffic at all and no refugees. I later learn that there is only one border crossing that is processing the refugees. 

The countryside is again picturesque but less polished than in Slovenia and a bit more dreary. This may be due to my route being alongside a major road all the way to Zagreb. On the plus side, there is continuous sun and no rain... a relief for the cold I've been harboring since Austria.

Wow, Zagreb is sure not a Mecca for cyclists. Cyclists are only safe on the broken-up footpaths and on many roads these don't exist. The cars emit a multitude of colored, noxious smoke from their exhausts and use excessive speed. Not for the faint-of-hearted - a bike-friendly level 5 in my opinion; with level 8 (deathwish) being Tslibisi in Georgia. 

Slovenia, give me more of Maribor

Another day, another country. First time in Slovenia and my first impressions are that it is a lot like Austria. The houses are similar chalet style wooden lodges and there are mountains, but not as numerous or imposing as those in Austria. 

Arriving in a small village outside Maribor, I meet my CS host (Demi) and his sister (Lara). They are living with their mom in this big house and going to university. This is the view from my balcony...

Lots of homegrown food and wine is produced here and I sample amply.

All that Graz

It's a short bike ride to Graz along the Mur river (Murweg). Cleverly I get drenched yet again by keeping my rain gear protected from the rain in my waterproof bags. 

Isabella is there to look after me and soon we are exploring the streets of Graz, taking in the more alternative aspects, including food sharing depots and book sharing points. 

Feeling a little unwell and postpone trip to Slovenia for another day and take in some more traditional tourist sights including a trek up Schlossburg. 

It is with a heavy heart that I leave Isa and Graz behind. Probably stopping back here on my way back. 

Pernegg delights

The rain continues unabated and it sure gets cold when you are at the top of a 1250m pass near Eisenertz. View is breathtaking or maybe that's just hyperventilation after the climb. 

Time for a map of my trip (download open street maps from maps.me for your mobile) to show you where the village of Pernegg is situated.

Such amazing hosts (Simon & Amarai), with an amazing house in Pernegg. Despite a 9 month baby and work commitments, they make lots of time for me. The garden boasts lots of fruit and veggies (Isabella grapes are tasty and I take some to go). 

A hell of a journey to Hall

It's gonna be a long day. Forecast for continuous rain, 140km stretch and a pass of 1000m. 

And I get off to a late start. In spite of the drenching rain and cold conditions the higher I ride, Austria's beauty shines through. 

With frozen fingers and toes and the sun already well set, I meet Josef in Hall and am extremely grateful to have a shower and a meal. 

Vöcklabruck - an interesting detour

The road to Vöcklabruck is sunny and quickly over. It is a detour to come north from Salzburg but Bob is very enthusiastic to meet me. He is American but has lived in Austria for 31 years.  he is close to retiring as a school teacher but i think his community activism will last for many years. We talk late into the night over a great butternut squash dinner. 

He uses his house as a "crash pad" or "nomad base" for anyone who is travelling through these parts, sometimes accommodating up to 12 people at once. He confesses that this may change if he decides to take in some refugees in the coming months.

So far, the Austrians that live met have been extremely active in helping out the Syrian refugees flooding through Austria on their way to Germany. 

Road to Croatia

Starting at the end of September decide to skip the German part of my bike trip to Croatia by taking MeinFern bus. Apologies for the plug, but it is worth noting that they do take fully assembled bikes across Germany for only 9€. This means my trip to Salzburg (border town of Austria) involves a minimal amount of fuss and his a cheaper alternative to the Deutsche Bahn train. 

Salzburg is a sleepy Austrian city where I get to meet my first CouchSurfing host - Thomas. He is helping out with the refugees in Salzburg and tells me of his experiences with the influx of Syrian refugees, primarily seeking refuge in Germany after 1000's of kms by land and  sea. Thomas is a nudist and suggested that we have a beer together au naturale in his comfortable apartment. Why not? This is part of the joy of CSing: the "finding new comfort-zone effect". 

What did the Warsaw?

Reunited again with Piotr and Ela in Warsaw. Unfortunately they work weekdays (people still do that?!?), so I get to hang with them in the evenings. I visit Ida (from BikeSurfWarsaw) to meet her and see how BikeSurf works here 

Realise that a heatwave (35C) is expected to start tomorrow and last for 4 days and take the regrettable decision to take the train back to Berlin. Would have been nice to make the round trip back by bike but it would have been an ordeal to do so. 

Ostrołęka

My CouchSurfing host in Ostrołęka once again is the extroverted Halina. The whole family is reunited, as she treats me as her Irish son. I meet her daughter, Marta, and granddaughter, Marasha. Bessy (the boxer dog) is as nuts as always. 

It proves difficult to drag myself away from my new Polish family and I finally hit the road to Warsaw after 16:00, planning to complete the 125km in under 6 hours. Nothing like a challenge for my legs.