Chisinau кішіенев ------------------ Tiraspol тірасполь (Transnistria)

Pocahontis aka Suzanna... Tiraspol

But you dont understand... i"m Batman^^

Breaking through the border into Transnistria. Probably not heard of this weird state: the state that practically nobody recognises as a state. It's in the northern part of Muldova and stretches approx 20km across and maybe 70km long. It's allegiance is with Russia and it has it's own currency, borders and government. Also, we have been forewarned about the corruption by border guards.
So it is with trepidation that we approach the border. Fortunately, we fill out a small form and through the border without hassle, the guards shaking their heads in disbelief at our bikes. Maybe they think we are too crazy or too poor to shake down properly. Tally-ho.

Military drill at sports day

Susanna (our Tiraspol host) brings us to our private apartment, while she stays with her parents closer to the city. She brings us on a biking tour of Tiraspol. Russian styled buildings and statues dominate the city. We find out about the founding of Transnistria in the memorial park and that the bank machines only dispense US dollars ($100 minimum) and Russian rupees. Most people don't use the banks here and tumbleweed rolls by, when I visit a bank, where six cashiers await my 10€ money exchange. Skip the party boat that ferries between Bender and Tiraspol.
Early start next morning, as Susanna has invited us to a sports day at her school. Not a typical sports day for me, as it is set in a forest and involves all sorts of weird party games inwhich all the classes compete against each other. For example, having to use a pair of binoculars to follow a track made with string, choreographed singing, army marching manoeuvres. Thankfully, we were allowed compete and help Susanna's class to a much-needed victory. For my part, I helped in an egg-and-spoon race, where you have to eat the egg at the end. Veganism notwithstanding.

Tiraspol ------------------- Odessa (Ukraine)

Jazz aka World festival in Odessa

Final stage of the journey for Andrew and it's a comfortable stretch, with only the slight anxiety of missing the 24 hour Transnistria deadline to be out of the country. We actually miss the deadline by 20 minutes but nobody seems to care. Back in Ukraine, the roads deteriorate but it's a straight road to Odessa.

Julia is really that shiney that it washed out this photo

On arriving in Odessa, we find out that two of our prearranged hosts are unable to host us. Thankfully, Fredericke comes to our rescue and we get brought back to her place. This means that we have not had to use the tent during our entire journey. A sign of the generosity of spirit in all the lands we have passed through. She is unable to show us about the city, but tells us of the highlights, which we visit next day. We visit the stairway that was filmed in Battleship Potemkin: iconic. Then look about the shopping district. Finally, we get to laze on one of the beautiful beaches and enjoy a swim in some of the clearest seawater I have seen. It feels like a fitting end to our long journey together: a definite destination with a chance to relax a few days before we part company.
Cook tortilla for Fredericke and enjoy a bottle of wine in the evening. It is very relaxing staying here but my thoughts turn to my epic journey in two days time.
Next day, rain stops our day 2 at beach but get to go to the Market then meet Julia, another couchsurfer, who gives us an informative critique of Odessa. Everything from the poor construction of "mother-in-law bridge" and the sex tourism here, to the lacklustre historical buildings. Also highlighted the desire of many to get a visa in order to leave the Ukraine.
The ever-generous Andrew decided to buy me a ticket to the Odessa Jazz Fest for my birthday. Yet again, we have got to a place right on time for something cool. It seems more than coincidence at this point. Asea Sool just rock the party - imagine Kate Bush, Axel Rose, Jonsi and lots of gypsiness all rolled into a singer. And then some Russian hippy friends sing some reggae in Russian.

Iasa ---------------- Chernivsi (Muldova)

View from our 15th floor apt

This part of the trek is where vital pieces of the route planning are highlighted by our local Sherpa, Andrei. He not only tells us that we need to go in a large zigzag manner (looks like a large M) to Chernivsi, but cycles with us 50km to ensure we leave Romania and have no problems at the border. As we have a delicious breakfast in our bellies, as well as some schnapps, we ride well and arrive in Chernivsi at 20:30; approx 7.5 hours biking.
Meet our host, Ramin, and enjoy a beer and sandwiches with him and his brother and his friend. Muldova hospitality matches all the other places on our voyage.

Hello, Mr. Ambassador

Next day, we look around the city: old part, government buildings, parks, US embassy (Andrew is homesick) and sweet shops. We meet with another couchsurfer, Victoria, and her friends. Head back to her place where we get free haircuts, which come with our choice of free shirts! Looking fantastic, we head out to THE bar of Chernivsi - EliPlli - with Victoria and friends. She is really well connected with all the movers and the shakers and soon we are talking with people from various backgrounds including sustainable agriculture and lawyers. I am informed that I am now officially the fourth Irish person in Muldova. We are also invited to parties in Odessa and Chernivsi in the coming days. Baga-mali! (Pump it up!). Also told by many people not to give bribes to the border security guards to Transnistria (our next destination).
Unfortunately, have to skip karaoke this time, due to an early start the next day for Ramin and us.

Romanesti (Romania) --------------- Iasi (Muldova)

Hangin. with Andrei

Another long journey (140km), but enjoying the beautiful countryside landscapes that Romania provides just about makes up for my aching legs. A break in the endless journey gets us talking, well attempting at least, to some gypsy kids who provide us with water from a nearby well.
We arrive an hour after dusk in our new home-from-home, chez Andrei. An amazing sumptuous feast awaits us, aubergine paste, fried potatoes and bread. Andrei explains the lack of meat is due to a religious holiday - no problem! There are three places set for supper but only two of us are eating. Andrei explains the third place is to represent the family. We get to eat for three, so. PS: there is a vineyard in the large back garden for wine producing.
Andrei's family are great - he has one brother (Michal) and sister (Anna) and despite language difficulties with his parents, we get by, especially when the homemade wine is opened.

Breakfast feast

Iasa castle

Next day, after a wonderful breakfast outside with the family, Andrei shows us about his city - the university, an 200 year old Romanian house belonging to a poet, the synagogue, the park, the bar (Joker), and finally the castle. Learn about the corruption that allowed a modern mall to be built right beside the castle and how all the young people in Romania seems to have good English due to the Cartoon Network. Very amused looking at students avoid an archway near the university that is meant to cause one to fail all exams if one walks under it.

Soviet styled cinema

Another amazing dinner, this time with the whole family present - a new variety of aubergine paste: this time with red bell peppers and tomatoes. Man, I gotta find out how his mom makes this! She bottles it for the winter and deprives her family of a bottle, by packing one with our packed lunch the next day. Learning all about untrustworthy gypsies from Andrei's father and Romanian history, politics and lifestyle from hanging with Andrei and his brother.

Our escort from Iasi

More homemade red wine and a type of schnapps gets everyone chatting until late.
On checking the route to our next destination in Muldova (Chisinau), we get bad news from our resident expert, Andrei. We must make a huge detour, as our planned route will not be possible unless we were a train. Instead of approx 90km, our route will be 160km. My legs grumble a bit, but feeling supercharged by the combination of the relaxed atmosphere in Andrei's house and the bountiful delicious food.
Next morning, at breakfast outside we are served borsch - we are explained that this is not usually a breakfast dish, but Andrei's mom wanted to show us how it is done in Romania. It's a vegetable broth with noodles, bit contrary to expectations, it is not made with beetroot. Very slow to say goodbye to our Iasa family and don't get on the road until after midday. I get an invitation to return on my way back to Bacau in a week's time. Can't wait.

Chernivisti ------------- Romanesti (near Suceava)

View from the fornt porch

George - CS Romanestri celebrity

Another border crossing already. Au revoir Ukraine. Will be only a few days until next we meet. An on into Romania. Customs a breeze, bypassing all the car queues, to turned heads. Mean headwinds and hilly terrain impede our rapid progress to a village near Suceava - Romineava.

When peanuts simply are not enough

Meet George in a petrol station and head to his house. He is hosting another couchsurfer and has given up his whole house to all of us. He will be staying with grandma. Such generosity and self-sacrifice.
Wonderful landscapes, especially when we climb the hill behind the house at sunset. Some beers in the local with some local lads. They demand photographic evidence that we actually came here by bike. Shame we'll miss the football game the next day. Next time, lads.

Kolomyia ------------- Charnitri

Our most excellent host Pasha

Not the longest of cycles (75km or so) but the Ukrainian air quality is getting to us. Trucks and 1970's cars whizz by spewing out noxious thick clouds of smoke and the wind helps force it down into our hard-working lungs. This is the only part of Ukraine that I won't miss.

Nightclubbing

Arrive in Charnitri after an epic final battle with a monster of a poorly cobbled hill, onwhich the city is located. Cycling in the cities of Ukraine is becoming a bit of a hazard to our bicycles health and possibly a vertebra or two. Meet up with Pasha (CS host for our stay here) and later that eve head off to watch Ukraine vs England match - ever-watchful of any chance to eat more food along the way. Eventually find food, beer and a TV and settle down to the game (1-1).
Pasha brings us on a walking tour of his city, highlighting the theatre, market squares and the main pedestrian street. Not one McDonalds in the city as it is "too expensive".
Go to a nightclub that evening and stay until the early hours, just to prepare for the journey in the morning. 

Cherche ------------ Kolomyia

Hunter S Thompson

Eggs-cellent

Long days voyage ahead. 130km through mountainous and poor quality roads. But we are up for it until we get "google lost" in the Ivano-Frankovitch suburbs. Arrive in Kolomyia later than expected and, after sprint finishing the last few km with the locals, are collected by Vysal and then chase his van through the streets of Kolomyia to his house.
Once again, our hosts have not only cooked us a lavish banquet but also waited for us to eat. Vysal and his wife have invited their French teacher and her husband to dinner - a mixture of d sausages, roasted chipped potatoes and chopped salad, all washed down with several rounds of plum whiskey, made by Vysal's father. The conversation is held in French and English.

Scarey traditional dolls

Egg abacus

Next morning, once again reluctantly refusing a request to stay longer, we visit some of the sights of the city with Vysal by bike. Egg museum and churches (orthodox and orthodox-catholic - for those who want a shorter mass time ie 3 hours vs 1 hour) are on our itinerary. Not enough time for the anthropology museum this visit.