Zagreb, once again

A long lunch of home-grown shitake mushroom omlettes and cowboy/ Turkish/ Polish coffee, means I hit the road in the late afternoon. It rains constantly, so I take no break on the 82km ride back to Zagreb. In comparison to further south, the route has very light traffic and wider roads. Some sections are through old forests and on gravel paths. The cycling is enjoyable in spite of being drenched all day. Thankfully, Borko has rescued me from a night under a not-so-waterproof tent. This really all you need at the end of any day biking : shower, warm food and a friendly chat. The weather forecast says that rain is here to stay another week... maybe it was the right decision to abandon this tour early. 

There's no place like Croatia

The tough decision having been made to continue living, I wheel my bike North again. To avoid the muddy paths and crazy main roads of Bosnia, I seek out the closest border crossing. Welcome back Croatia, all is forgiven. 

Tempting me to stay in Bosnia, the smaller roads I take today are pleasant and the sun is beginning to shine. No, I shall not be tricked into staying. 

There is some serious elevation today (at times 15% roads), but when it's not raining and there is little traffic, it's an enjoyable process. 

I just wonder if Igor can host my weary body and bedraggled nerves tonight. I had said farewell to him as if I were off on a terrifically long biking adventure and now here I am, one day later, returning to his home. 

Not only is Igor happy to see me again, his girlfriend (Sveta, Croatian for "flower") is also very welcoming. They wine and dine me over the next two days and we have longer conversations in the evenings. Luckily they allow me to help them out on the farm the next day. It's nice to be able to give something back.  

Bihac (Bi-ach)

Hop on the bike and it's exciting to visit a new country. Finally, I'll see the amazing hospitality and friendliness of Bosnia Herzegovina. Sure, they don't use the Euro and no free roaming. Sure, it's been impossible to find any hosts on my route through this smallish country. But how hard can it be? Bloody, it turns out. 

The weather turns and clouds gather overhead. Pathetic fallacy, omen or just pure coincidence, I simply know that it is not the best way for a country to welcome a cyclist. 

Gotta get off this major road as soon as possible, as it seems Bosnian drivers are so curious about my bike they have to pass me extremely close. Doesn't matter if you are driving a tiny car or a large van, 10-20cm is sometimes all the clearance I get : a nerve wracking experience and worse than any other country I have ridden through. 

Aha, here's a quieter and more direct road. The catch? It's a mixture of pure mud and elevation, sometimes necessitating pushing my bike through the loose gravel and rutting trails. 

Then it starts raining. 

I am sure it's am interesting country: three religions (Catholic, Muslim, Orthodox), three ethic groups (Bosnian Croats, Serbians, Turkish), beautiful scenery and rich history. In this northern part, each village has its own minaret (Muslim tower) and I hear call to prayer chanting frequently as I ride by. 

Hard to appreciate all this when there are so many cars and large trucks all trying to run shoulders with my bike. And I am supposed to have at least five more days heading south through this country? Maybe I need another course of action. This is not simply physically tough, but mentally exhausting, and probably life endangering. 

Prisjeka (Bosnian border)

Naturally Borko has a contact on my route south to the Bosnian border. The border lies approximately 70km south of Zagreb and is not in the Schengen zone. 

Borko has suggested this new route to avoid the busy and dangerous roads further east. 

Croatian car drivers are generally patient with cyclists, but the roads can be narrow and curvy, meaning that it is sometimes a nervy experience. Some of my Croatian friends use very primitive dirt trails to cross Croatia, but this means fewer kilometers per day and probably a more suitable bike. 

I meet up with Igor after 82km of hilly terrain in a town called Prisjeka. He lives with Sveta for the past 2.5 years on an eco farm he is developing. This involves planting fruit trees, growing shiitake mushrooms and expanding his honey production. Oh yeah, he now also has more than fourteen dogs on the farm; ten being born in the past year. Needless to say, there is a lot going on here, but Igor is a more attentive host and cooks a delicious ravioli meal for the two of us. 

I learn more about Croatia's history, economy and transition to the Euro as we chat until midnight. A new route taking in more of Croatia is also suggested, as I plan to cross the border tomorrow. 

Zagreb

15 hours by bus (Flixbus) direct from Berlin lies Zagreb in Croatia. Bus travel is cheap, reliable and more environmentally friendly, if a little uncomfortable. It is the best way if one needs to bypass some of the colder overnight northern climes in springtime. That, and I have cycled this route before and want to tackle new paths. 

Gray, drizzly skies welcome me into Croatia, as well as Borko, a friend of many years. I had specifically chosen to come make this bike ride south in May in order to avoid the intense heat of summer. However, this dripping sky is not what I had in mind as cycling motivating weather. It is Croatia and the clouds are burned away to reveal brilliant blue skies in subsequent days. 

Borko has his fingers in multiple business pies: moving van man and honey entrepreneur being his primary ways of generating income. The Euro currency was introduced on January 1st this year and, similar to other countries, caused a spike in prices. This, combined with a higher-than--European-average inflation rate of 17%, had been particularly tough for those Croats whose income is not directly sourced from the tourism industry. Wandering around the local Lidl shows that basic groceries are now priced even higher (approx 10-20%) than in Germany. 

Prior to setting off on this adventure to Albania(?), I had prepared my route. Factors involved in this process included avoidance of major roads, extreme climbs and where I would be able to stay overnight with people on hospitality sites such as TrustRoots, WarmShowers and BeWelcome. I no longer use CouchSurfing since it became a B Corporation (August 2012) and more recently a paid subscription service (May 2021). Finding hosts in this part of Europe was very difficult, with few hosts available and few replies to my requests. Looks like it will be mostly wild camping and probably fewer creature comforts than on previous bike treks. 

After doing some research and talking to others who have cycled in Croatia, I decide to avoid the coast road as the traffic can be heavy and dangerous for bikers. Also wild camping is more frowned upon in these more touristic regions.

 

This means more hills to tackle, but also probably more backwater villages to visit with a slower pace of life and a more welcoming curiosity for passing strangers. As it turns out, even my quieter roads are not safe enough, and Borko advises me to take even more minor and hilly roads to avoid conflicting momenta with my more heavy and fast road users. This means, basically, that any route prepping and most of the arranged hosts are now no longer possible. Luckily Borko is well connected in Croatia and has a friend with whom I can stay on the border of Bosnia. 

I spend a few days in Zagreb, meeting up with friends, helping Borko sell honey at a farmers' market, going to punk concerts and going to BicPop, a DIY bicycle repair workshop in the heart of the city. 

Basel

Yet again a sunny day for my 95km ride north-west to Basel. There is one minor pass of 750m to climb, but it is a relatively easy day. I am going to Basel to meet my friend Patryk, so we can catch up with a large bike touring group called Green Riders. This group started the Eurovelo 6 (on the coast of France) at the start of June and plan to ride the full route of 4500km to the Black Sea in two months. They will visit interesting environmental and social projects on the way and attempt to stealth camp with up to 20 people for the majority of the nights. However, they have a 300km head start on Patryk and I, so the initial few days on the Rhine will be longer than usual.
Having recieved many offers of accomodation on CouchSurfing in Basel, I eventually stay with Anil in the city centre

Luzern Lucerne so good they named it twice

Some of the most stunning scenery I have ever experienced is on today's ride to Luzern. Skirting the edge of two large lakes makes for an magnificent introduction to the pretty town of 100,000 inhabitants. The old part of town is simply full of day tourists and everything is extremely expensive. In the evening I head to the nearby town of Rothenburg, where my friend Sabrina lives in a WG (Wohngemeinschaft) - where you share a living space with one or several others. It is a large, old, wooden farm house and Sabrina shares the house with five others. They prepare meals together, play music and generally hang out together whether possible. There is nobody there when I first reach the house and Sabrina has told me the house is always open. I had observed that security of personal possessions in Switzerland is rather lax; expensive bicycles locked with feeble or no locks, no security walls around houses, etc. This is something I could definitely get used to. It makes you feel that you can relax more and nobody will take advantage.
I stay the nights in this farmhouse surrounded by her wonderful housemates. I spend the first day helping out in a food co-op that Sabrina helps organise and the second cycling about town, exploring the more alternative spots of the city. Each evening gather together to prepare delicious dinners, with some of the ingredients fresh from the garden.
Unfortunately this slice of Elysium will be destroyed in November, when the house is destined to be demolished to make way for a new housing development. The desperate search for a rare bat to make the house it's home continues.