Saturday, 7 September 2013

Casa di Bernd - Ispica, Sicily

I will post a little about my current surroundings, to give you a taste of my newly found lifestyle in Ispica, Sicily.

Ispica, is a village of approximately 30,000 inhabitants, situated on a hill, 176m above sea-level. It is a sleepy town, with typical south Italian conservative views. Religion and tradition are still very evident parts modern life here. 7 km from a owonderful beach, with soft waves and clean water.

Bernd's place (La casa di Bernard) consists of three seperate non-adjoining gardens at the edge of the village. Here he grows various fruit and vegetables and in one of the gardens he lives comfortably in a series of four furnished caves. He has lived here for over twenty years and in that time has made “outside living” as comfortable as possible. His philosophy is to try to be as self-sufficient, healthy and creative. When not looking after his gardens, he is an artist and car mechanic. He is an artist in the Leonardo diVinci sense of the word ie carving, sculpting, painting, etc. and also designing, engineering, building new ideas. Constantly inventing and improvising, he uses other people's thrown out items to create new art or items to improve the quality of life for him and his guests. An eccentric in even the most open society, he is a remarkable oddity here in southern Sicily. But like all genius, it is not recognised in its time. He lends his time freely to those who care to listen. His skills and expertise are renown in this part of Sicily and many of the church and private sculptures, interior paintings and theatrical sets highlight his talents. Recently, his knowledge and experience of solar panel technology is being sought by the villagers.

I was inspired into learning how to live in a more environmentally, basic and healthy way on my visit here last year. Bernd invited me to “cave-sit” for him during his two month work trip throughout Germany, fixing 2CV Citroens for friends and family. Now, I have successfully completed my induction training here; gardening basics, how to take care of the animals, what to do when water/ energy/ rain is absent or in excess. I am alonee, minding five dogs, four hens and thirteen tortoises...

Some basics of my training and daily routine, will enlighten you to my new lifestyle.
  • Here is the general layout of the main living spaces
    • There are four caves which Bernd has extended in his time here. Three bedrooms, fully equipped with lights, fans (important to reduce the damp atmosphere of caves; who would have known?), stove (allegedly it gets cold here in winter and to keep the caves from becoming too damp), radio/ CD/ mp3 player, bed, tables, artwork on the walls, wardrobes
    • Kitchen area is outside under a roof. Gas stove. Fresh water only from approx 8am to 11am.
    • Dining area consists of a table with benches under another roof.
    • Solar panels are located on a higher platform, overlooking the kitchen/ dining area.
    • Outdoor shower, with water heated directly from the sun
    • Indoor bathroom, with wood-heated shower
    • Compost”outhouse” toilet overlooking Cava di Ispica: every six months can be emptied to use as fertiliser in the gardens
  • All energy is derived from the sun – using a few solar panels (one automatically motorised), a series of batteries and low usage appliances, this place is almost off the electrical grid (the washing machine is still connected). A word of warning, is that the energy retrieved is only of the 12V variety. This does not compromise the electrical appliances Bernd has here. It just required a rethink.
    • He uses car appliances, including a car fridge, car stereos and car fans, which normally function on 12V.
    • Electrical work tools, laptop, lights and other devices, he converts to accept 12V.
    • USB devices and others can be plugged directly into the laptop or car cigarette lighter sockets, located throughout.
    • Directly solar charged appliances, including mosquito UV lamp.
    • There is one socket available that uses a transformer to convert the 12V to 240V.
  • Water is used as conservatively as possible here eg compost toilet, waste water from dishes waters the plants, watering plants by hand only when necessary.

cauliflower
grapes
cactus fruit
paprika/ peppers
crab apple
bamboo
salad ie lettuce
corriander
lemon

tomatoes
aubergine/ egg plant
sage
rosemary
dragon fruit flower
2nd garden
spearmint
breakfast - figs included
something edible
onions


And now onto my animal tending tendancies.
  • Five schitzu dogs (Benny, Cora, Mya, Hugo and Camilla) with big personalities wander about the garden all day long. These need feeding twice a day and fresh water.
  • Four egg-laying hens (for the moment, nameless). To be fed daily and fresh water. Produce four eggs a day. Rumours of expanding hen population to eight in November.
  • Thirteen tortoises (numbered on their shells, seriously!). Born survivors, no need for special attention, some discarded food scraps and fresh water for the little 'uns. Only to be seen early mornings and evenings sunning themselves in their compound - soon to be enlarged.
Bernd can be contacted via BeWelcome and Couchsurfing.

A work in progress... step 1 of making a cave your home - find a cave

Abandoned due to landslide risk!

Garden with tortoise sanctuary in background


THAT kichen/ dining area space - solar panel above

Bernd's sculptures mushroom

NOW... La casa di Graham

Towards the 2nd cave bedroom and bikeshed
Four bikes to be bikesurfed



Guest cave #1

Guest cave #2

Outdoor shower - water heated by the sun

That shower heating system - MacGyver-esque


Compost toilet - no water required - best view ever



View from the toilet seat!
Upper level
Toilet facilities










Not on Google street maps... front door
View from the chicken pen
Parco forza - view from the garden
Mystery wagon

Wednesday, 24 October 2012

Ispica ------ Rome

Biking with Silvia in Rome
What's in the bag, Bernd?
Et voila.
 I have an extended stay with Bernd in Ispica (10 days), due to a combination of lack of motivation to tackle Sicilian roads again, no CouchSurfers able to host me and a wonderful, inspirational host and surrounds. However, all good things must come to a close, so its packing up time. On intercity Italian rail, the bike is totally forbidden, UNLESS it is in a bag measuring 110cm x 80cm x 40cm. After a predictable failed search for such a bag in Ispica - who after all, ever leaves their home towns in Sicily, especially with a bicycle? Luckily for me, Bernd is a genius when it comes to improvisation. The "bag" is fashioned out of a single duvet cover, with everything held tightly together by good old fashioned Sellotape. Perfecto! I will use this trick next time on the plane from Rome and on future bike treks.

Silvia and I having a "real" coffee in Rome
Yes, we met up with Giuseppi too.
A really amazing train journey from Ispica to Rome - the train drives onto a goddam ferry and the threateningly high mountains out the window convince me that I have chosen the right mode of transport to get to Rome.

Some street art, makes me feel like I'm home already
At the train station, I am met by Silvia and a congratulatory beer. Over the next few days in Rome, I see a lot of what is "behind the tourist curtain", courtesy of Silvia. Among the several highlights was visiting an Occupy space, where I saw some glimmers of the the alternative side of Rome.

Remnant of the Weird festival







We visited many galleries, museums and churches, where I began to truly appreciate some of the Italian art, especially Caravaggio's paintings.









Cycling in Rome was an experience too. Not as terrifying and dangerous as expected, but maybe my experiences in the cities of the Ukraine have toughened me up some.


Tarallucci e Vino - yummers
Gallerie Borghese, I think



Tuesday, 9 October 2012

Some final tales from Ispica

Ente uncovered
Sunset at Ispica
Progressed onto helping out Bernd with some of the more complicated tasks that completes daily. This time it is deconstructing a car engine, retuning the brakes and fixing the coupling. This turns out to be an oily and dirty job. With only a few spanners and a lot of know-how the engine was deconstructed and rebuilt within 4 hours. "Ich wöllte eins" was my repeated phrase during the day, in reference to this Citroen 2CV "Ente" car.
I keep bumping into the local youths who hang around street corners on their mopeds. They introduce me to their fellow school friends who look at me, then the bike and then the route we took from Berlin and keep saying "no credo!".
There is a multitude of flowers and various plants in Bernd's exotic gardens but the cactus flowers only on one night a year and I got to witness these strange plants in full bloom.
Boyz 'n' the Hood
Do vegetarians make an exception for tortoises?
Hats off, to you sir
Cactus blooms once per year - magnifico

Sunday, 7 October 2012

Ispica life

I said just a little off the top!
6 pieces of pizza for 6 hungry dogs
Been here for a few days now and my first impressions have been proven correct. This sicilian oasis offers more delights by the day. Whether it is hanging with kite-surfers on the nearby unpopulated beach, helping Bernd out with cutting down a palm tree or just chilling in town, enjoying a gelato (ice-cream) or pizza with the locals, it all leads to one conclusion - here is a place to return to every April and September/October.
Small town Sicilian life can be a bit weird and claustrophobic at times. For example, the gardener knew all about this "crazy, German cyclist" from the kids I talked to the other day and overheard arguments from the neighbours are of the loud and long variety, but it really gives you a true glimpse into the non-touristic side of living here.
Learning Italian through German learning CDs is pretty cool too.
Tutti benesimmo ecco!

Wednesday, 3 October 2012

Francesco"s wedding in Modica

Duoma di San Giorgio
 Wake early to get on the road to Modica, to be in time for Francesco"s wedding in Modica. Only 20km away, but I will forever be wary of Italian roads and my navigation thereof.
The labyrinth of Modica

As it turns out, within 45 minutes I am in the city and another 30 minutes gets to me to the church on time, with lots of time to spare. Get to meet up with the priest in advance who lets me change in the church and is amazed that I have come to Sicily from Berlin by bike.

The beautiful couple
This is a really impressive church overlooking Modica, which is a beautiful city clinging onto the hillside.

Bellisima
Francesco and Brooke in their shining glory

It is a surreal sight to see Francesco in his native surrounds, but having to deal with the last minute stresses of an Italian wedding. Meeting up with others from St. James"s Hospital is equally bizarre. Retelling the tale of my bike ride to Sicily is something I have become used to and is met with looks of disbelief by all those who hear it.
The superstars of today will be Francesco and Brooke and they really look great and in the moment. The service is conducted in Italian, with the highlights translated by Francesco, in his own inimitable style. The atmosphere light and jovial and I get the assignment to film the wedding. Now I feel like a proper paparazzo.
That pool!
St. James"s reunion in Modica

I get the bus to the reception hotel overloooking the sea. Wow. It is 30C or so and I just want to dive into this swimming pool on first glance. However, there is a certain decorum that one must follow at such occasions. So I wait until after the delicious food to jump in. On the vegetarian"s plate  was generous helpings of  capanatta, gnocci,  vermicelli grilled aubergine and mozzerella di buffela. Sempre fame por cusina italiano.

The reception became more and more relaxed as the wine became to flow and the guys became kids trying to throw each other in the pool. The speeches from Fran, Brooke and family were conducted in the kitchen: how appropriate for an Italian wedding.

It has been definitely worth all the effort to get here for this wonderful day and here"s one last toast to the beautiful bride and groom. Salutè!