Vienna

For once I actually take the Radweg (designated bike path), as I am in no rush and this close to Vienna all the roads are pretty hectic. 

Tim, a friend of mine, has come to my rescue and agrees to host me for the two nights. He lives in a shared house with a diverse set of housemates, who are pretty alternative.... Berlin/ Vienna DJ, artist, etc.

Hang about the city for the first day being a tourist - seeing sights, drinking coffee. Although it is a very pretty city, this way of seeing the city no longer interests me. 

We head out to a "Clowns without Borders" fundraising event which is exactly the kind of thing I do like. And then later to Tim's friend's birthday party until the early hours. 

Next day, Tim shows me around. First it's off to the farmers market and then onto Urbanise # 15 - a 10 day event presenting new grassroot projects. This is fascinating stuff - urban mobility and reducing gentrification by pooling inhabitants rent in order to buy a space - Habitäterin (in case you are interested). 

Everyone is allowed to draw their thoughts and ideas directly on the walls, as the space is being renovated. 

Wiener Neustadt

120km with a 1000m pass in constant rain. This is my lasting impression of Austria, that it rains a lot and it gets colder at higher altitudes. My toes and fingers lose sensation and there are no spectacular views on the pass due to fog. 

Arriving in Wiener Neustadt soaked thoroughly, once again a CS angel (Andrè) helps me out. After a revitalizing shower and meal, we hang out watching a movie at home. 

Pernegg an der Mur

A short evening ride to Pernegg to stay with Simon and Amrai. Hang out in Frohleiten and then take an early night after enjoying some 21 year old, sail-boat, limited edition rum. 

Awake to find constant rain will accompany me on my journey to Weiner Neustadt today. 

Graz revisited

A short ride to Graz on well maintained bike paths. Meet up with Isa again, this time in her new place. Instead of living alone, she now lives in a WG with three others. They have a vegetable patch and grow apples, Isabella grapes and quinces    They make various jams, compotes, juices and sauces from their produce. Especially delicious is the banana chutney. 

After eating outside in the garden on this sunny afternoon, we take a bike ride around the neighboring hilltops for a better view. In the beech forest, Isa points out all the local flora and tells me of the 'tree people'. We also find a very camouflaged frog - just under Isa's wrist in photo. 

Later that evening, we all head out to a music performance by Max & his band. I try some schillingsturm (young, sparkling, pink wine). Then there is an impromptu yodeling performance in the bar. 

Next day we chill out and go to a local farmers' market before I hit the road northwards. 

Forest, on Slovenian-Austrian border

Chose Sunday to cycle out of Zagreb, thinking it would prove quieter on the roads. Kind of, but still avoid any semi-major road. I have no waiting time or problems on the Slovenian border but do have to take the highway for a few kilometers - no other way for cyclists to get to border control. 

The ride from Zagreb through Slovenia and into Austria is like a gradually increasing progression of cycling conditions and cycling safety. 

First time this trip I get to wild camp and its just over the border in Austria. It proves to be a cold disrupted sleep, as I did not bring my thermarest sleeping mat. 

Velica Gorica, Zagreb

Expecting many refugees at the border between Croatia and Slovenia but there are none. This I learn later is due to Slovenia's decision to only allow refugees through one border point. The border patrol guy gives me crap about having to pay 200€ for trying to avoid the border patrol. His attempt is not successful. 

Croatia seems less finished and much less like Austria, with buildings under construction and things left lying around... a forklift here, a big pile of iron girders there. However my biggest complaint is the non-cyclist friendly roads, especially near Zagreb... no space for bikes on large roads, the cars travelling very fast or having to make very large detours to get onto a quieter road. 

I make it to Natasa's house with fried nerves due to the traffic. Have not seen Natasa for 13 years, but she and her house haven't changed. By the way, this is not some Dublin pajamas fashion thing, it's just early. 

Spend a few days at Natasa's place and hang around Gorica and venture in to Zagreb. Here is the opera house. 

I meet up with Borco, a guy I met over a year ago and he shows me the bike kitchen where he volunteers.

Borco also shows me around the more alternative, studenty side of Zagreb... street art, student bars, music festival. 

Here is Sopot, a district which has the biggest apartment block in Croatia called "Mammoth". 5000 inhabitants and air raid shelters built for the Serbian bombing attacks in the early 90's.